Today is a transit day. We are heading out to meet our cruise ship in Civitavecchia. Before that, we did have a little bit of time in Rome, so we went to see a really old church in Rome. Paul actually planned our hotel around this church, so we are staying right across the street from it.

Basilica of San Clemente

The Basilica of San Clemente that stands today was built from 1099-1113. This church was built over 3 previous ones, which we were able to see as they have been excavated.

In the 2nd century AD the house of one of the first Roman Senators to convert to Christianity, Titus Flavius Clemens, was used for worship. This was basically a secret church, as Christian worship was forbidden at the time. The home still exists 2 levels below the current church. About a century later, the home was used as a temple to Mithras. There they performed a ceremony where they sacrificed a bull and bathed Roman soldiers in the blood of the bull as an initiation. The bull was killed in the floor above and the blood poured out through a hole in the floor and over the soldier on the floor below.

Temple of Mithras

Later, above this house a large room was built that later became a basilica commissioned by Pope Siricius in 313 AD after the Christian persecution ended. This basilica was likely damaged during the Norman sack of Rome in 1084. There is an alternate theory that the church was abandoned due to its association with the imperial opposition pope Clement III. Either way, it was abandoned and buried under the level of the streets of the city. Fortunately, many of its frescoes survived.

4th Century Basilica Fresco

4th Century Basilica Fresco

From 1099-1113, the current Basilica of San Clemente was built. The mosaics were done in the 1130s. They are stunning. The church has undergone renovations, but the mosaics are originals. This is one of those churches that does not allow pictures. They had one “hall monitor” who I managed to sneak around with my iPhone. Going to the basilica itself is free, but seeing the 2nd century house church and original basilica does require a fee. It is worth it.

Current Basilica’s 12th Century mosaics

After going through the basilica, it was time to head out to Civitavecchia. We had our own driver, so it was pretty nice. We got on the ship easily and settled in. This is one of Princess’ smaller ships, Pacific Princess. Fewer than 700 on here…we are more used to 4,000-ish, so this is a little ocean cruise ship! Way less crowded. Not much else to add for today, just hanging out.

Civitavecchia

Sailing away from Civitavecchia at night